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Getting Seeds Off to a Great Start


2012-01-31  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Reprinted with permission from the Dig This Newsletter


All throughout January, I’ve been asked “What seeds can I start now?” 

  My reply?  Nothing!

  That’s not technically true, of course.  Some flower seeds, such as geraniums, should be started indoors in January.  But it’s too early to start most other flowers and vegetable seeds.  At this point, I usually get a copy of the West Coast Seed catalogue and flip to the Planting Chart.  The chart tells you what seeds to start and whether indoors or directly seeded outdoors for each month of our coastal growing season.

  If you don’t already have a copy of this free catalogue, drop by one of our stores and get one.  It’s the best resource on how to grow vegetables in our coastal climate, and it’s free!

  However, now that it’s almost February, there are seeds you can start indoors – leeks, asparagus, sweet onions, and parsley.  You can direct seed broad beans outdoors, and after the middle of the month, peas.  If you use a floating row cover, you can also direct seed radishes and oriental greens.

The real indoor seed starting “season” begins in March, but now is the time to get your seeds and other seed starting supplies ready.

  Starting plants from seeds is easy.  Better yet, you can be sure your plants are organically grown and you’ll have a better selection of varieties to choose from if you grow your own flowers and vegetable starts.

  Here are some basic tips for successful seed starting indoors:

  Containers.  You can use pretty well anything that is clean and will hold about 2 – 3 inches deep of starting mix. Some people like to grow their seeds in large, shallow pans, called “flats” and then prick out each seeding to pot on as they get bigger. Others grow their seeds in little plastic containers with cells for each plant or individual peat pellets. Some people recycle and use plastic containers used previously for food and cut-down milk cartons. Then there is the Pot Maker, which helps you make little containers from old newspapers.  Organic growers often use soil blockers – an intriguing mechanical device that forms blocks of soil in which to grow your seeds.  Whatever you use is clean and has good drainage.

  Growing Mix.  Fill your containers with a starter mix or other medium made specifically for seed-starting. Do not use garden soil or regular potting soil.  It will be too heavy, and your seeds will be starved for oxygen.

  Read the Seed Package Carefully.  Seed packages usually contain useful information about planting your seeds, like how deep to plant them, whether they need darkness or light a period of cold weather to germinate successfully.  There are some seeds that do not like to be covered as they need light to germinate so read your package carefully. The seeds of impatiens, petunias, alyssum, and ageratums do not like to be covered, just pressed firmly into the starter mix.  If you need more information, West Coast Seed Catalogue has detailed growing instructions for each type of vegetable that they sell. 

  Plant the Seeds. As a general rule, you should fill your containers and moisten the mix, then drop your seeds onto the mix as evenly as possible. Cover the seeds carefully to a depth of three times the size (width) of the seed or accordingly to the instructions on the seed package. Tamp the mix down gently so they are in close contact with the moist mix. Don’t forget to label them!

  Heat. Seeds generally germinate better when their soil is warm. A heating mat is a good investment, but placing your containers on top of a water heater or over a gas stove’s pilot light also works. Do not place them on a windowsill as the night temperatures are too cool for germination. Consistent warmth day and night is what starts the seeds!

  Moisture. Keep your mix moist, but not wet. Water from above using a spray bottle with tepid water. Our bottle top waterers are perfect for this job. Cover the seeds with a plastic dome or plastic wrap. Check daily and when you see your seeds sprouting remove the cover.

  Light. Growing seedlings need 12 – 16 hours of light a day. We sell an easy-to-install grow light system in 2, 3 and 4 foot lengths that will really give your plants the best start.  Begin with them 2" above the pots and raise the lights gradually as the plants grow. If you don’t have lights, place your containers is the brightest spot you have. Seedlings that have to stretch for light become spindly and weak.

  Fertilizer. When your seedlings have got their second set of leaves you can start feeding them a light mixture of liquid fish/seaweed fertilizer every week. Be careful not to over water as “damping off” can occur. This is a fungal disease that can fell your seedlings at ground level, so test your soil before watering. It is okay to let the top of the soil dry out between waterings. Poke your finger into the soil to test for moistness, and if the top half inch is dry, its time to water.

  Play with Your Seedlings. By ruffling or petting your seedlings once a day you are help them grow stocky and strong. This is a great way to create air circulation around your plants.  If you have a lot of seedlings, a fan does the same job.

  Potting On. Repot the seedlings into their own container after they have a few sets of leaves. They will need a soil mix that contains compost. Handle them by their leaves so you do not damage their fragile stems.

  Hardening Off.  When the weather is warm enough to plant your new seedlings outdoors, you need to get them used to outside temperatures gradually.  This is called “hardening off”.  About a week before you’re ready to plant them into your garden, start introducing them to the garden by placing them in a shaded and protected area for a few hours, and then bring them in at night. Gradually move them into the sun and soft winds adding more time each day. In a few days you can leave them overnight and then transplant into your garden.

  For more information, watch this short video from Thompson & Morgan Seeds.


Elizabeth Cull

Dig This Victoria

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How to trap and kill slugs naturally


2011-09-03  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

All slugs are hermaphrodites which means that every slug can lay eggs. They lay eggs up to 6 times per year. "Slugs reach maturity after about 3 to 6 months, depending on the species, and lay clear, oval to round eggs in batches of 3 to 40 beneath leaves, in soil cracks, and in other protected areas."  

There are two successful methods we've found for ridding your garden of slugs. The first is handpicking in the morning or evening. We collect the slugs in a bowl of soapy water. Don't leave the bowl unattended as some determined slugs will find their way out. 

The second method is to bait slugs with oatmeal. Oat flakes expand in liquid and this is exactly what happens inside the slug, and ultimately stopping it in its tracks. We've tested this method in peak slug season and the results are amazing. Its a safe method for killing slugs and won't harm your garden, insects, birds, pets or children. Be sure to replenish the oats as they disappear. 
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USC Canada - job posting


2011-09-01  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

USC CANADA/SEEDS OF DIVERSITY CANADA: PROGRAM DEVELOPMENT MANAGER (PDM) FOR THE BAUTA INITIATIVE ON CANADIAN SEED SECURITY


USC Canada, in collaboration with Seeds of Diversity Canada, is seeking an innovative and strategic organizer to develop and manage a pilot phase of a new Canadian seed diversity and security initiative. A deep knowledge of small-scale organic seed and food production in Canada is a must, as is a minimum of ten years experience in program development and coordination. Experience as a workshop facilitator and trainer is a strong asset. Also required are strong English language writing skills, and oral proficiency in both English and French. Based in Ottawa, this is a full-time 15-month contract position that will require extensive travel in Canada. (Should this pilot phase prove successful, the PDM will be short-listed for a position within a more comprehensive 36-month program.)


Specific responsibilities include:

Under the supervision of the Executive Director of USC Canada, and in close collaboration with key seed and food actors across the country:


Provide strategic leadership, coordination and creative input into the development of a Canadian seed diversity and seed security program; Conduct applied research on: existing organizations within the Canadian food system with a special interest in biodiverse and heirloom seeds; on production facilities for seed multiplication and bolstering seed supply systems ; on market opportunities and regulations for biodiverse and heirloom seeds, particularly for heritage grains;


Organize and liaise with national and regional committees formed to offer programmatic advice; Design and implement national and regional ‘training for trainers’ programs in various locations in Canada in 2012 on seed production, saving and bulking-up;


Administer a program budget as well as an assessment of the pilot phase;


Liaise with seed-related public institutions (government; universities; botanical gardens) across the country;


Oversee a contractual arrangement with the designer/ manager of a farmer-friendly virtual seed extension service and collaborate on content;


Initiate relationships with organizations willing to collaborate on regional seed programming, and identify regional coordinators to carry out the programming in: Ontario; Quebec; Atlantic Canada; The Prairies; and Western Canada.



Qualifications:

A minimum of 10 years experience in program development and management; educational training, or equivalent experience, in a field related to the food system and small scale farming (from production to consumption). Excellent networking and program development and coordination skills. Strong English- language writing skills and oral proficiency in both English and French.



Write to USC Canada in confidence by September 20, 2011. 



Please include both a detailed curriculum vitae -- with the names of three easily reachable references – and a two page (max) written statement on the opportunities and challenges of building seed security in Canada. Search Committee: Bauta Initiative on Canadian Seed Security



USC Canada, 705 – 56 Sparks St Ottawa, ON, K1P 5B1


To learn more about USC Canada and Seeds of Diversity Canada, please visit: www.usc-canada.org and www.seeds.ca


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Raspberries - Grow one crop in two spots


2011-08-27  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

If you love raspberries, experiment with growing them in full sun as well as part shade

We have a raspberry patch that is growing in full sun, in the north facing area of our yard (zone 3). The berries from this patch are super sweet and ready to eat mid-summer. 

We have a second patch in our south facing yard that is part of a food forest. The canes grow in the part shade beneath a crabapple tree. The raspberries in this area receive less direct sunlight and are a little less sweet. The advantage of this patch is that they ripen later and keep growing as the rain subsides in late summer. 

One garden gives us staggered harvests of berries by growing the same crop in varied light conditions. 
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How to save seeds; top 10 online resources


2011-08-24  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Learn how to save seeds so you can swap them on SeedLiving. Here are some helpful online resources. 

The Vegetable Seed Saving Handbook; from Amaranth to Watermelon
The Seed & Plant Sanctuary for Canada; getting good seeds involves getting to know the plant's life cycle.
The International Seed Saving Institute; for beginners and experts
Primal Seeds; if you're intending to save seeds, grow more plants than you think you will need. 
Mr Brown Thumb's Blog; an active gardener and seed saver
University of Illinois Extension; a good one page summary
Rodale Institute; the why and how of seed saving
How to save tomato seeds; from the Guardian's gardening column
Saving annual flower seeds; Petunias, Marigolds, Zinnias and Impatiens
How to save carrot seeds; everything you wanted to know about carrots 
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Tips from our garden; growing veggies in a jiffy


2011-06-08  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

When you purchase green onions, leeks, celery, cabbage and carrots from the farmers market, they often have the roots in tact or, in the case of carrots, they have new green tops sprouting. Better yet if you have grown these vegetables yourself and have stored them throughout the winter. 

Use the vegetable as you intended and, instead of putting the rooted bottom of the plant in the compost bucket, put it in some water or growing medium and then transplant it to your garden. A good time to do this is in early spring so you can get a head start on the growing season.

Back in February, we put the base of a celery bunch in water, it developed roots and then in May it was transplanted it to the garden. It was much healthier indoors where the temperature was even and it grew like a weed. Our vote is to have celery as a potted plant in your kitchen where you can grab a few fragrant leaves and stems for soups and salads. 

A couple of weeks ago we bought organic green onions and planted the rooted bottom directly into the garden. After two weeks, the green onions are four inches tall. Essentially we are skipping the compost heap altogether and getting a second harvest from one vegetable plant. 
For carrots, spend a little more and get an heirloom variety. If they have overwintered, as is the case with many root vegetables, you can plant the entire carrot including new green shoots, in your garden, and this will provide you with carrot seeds in the current growing season. You may not know the seed variety unless this can be determined directly from the farmer. One carrot will produce hundreds of seeds. 

The same technique can more used for leeks and cabbage. 

If you are blessed with a really long growing season, take a stem from your most fertile and loved tomato plant and put it in some growing medium. Remove some of the lower leaves to reduce its demand for water. The stem should develop roots quite quickly. It will start to flower and provide another harvest in the season. 
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Please help Europe by signing the petition


2011-04-15  Jonna - Büllingen

It's now coming to Europe: Big seed trust are trying to take over. Please read and sign the petition
http://www.seed-sovereignty.org/EN/index.html

From the website:
"Tens of thousands of people throughout Europe are actively demanding that the right to produce seeds remains in the hands of small farmers and gardeners. A diversity of crops has nourished mankind for thousands of years. Seeds that we have inherited from past generations are the basis of life and are essential for food sovereignty.


The big seed trusts are determined to obtain worldwide control. This has been made clear by genetic engineering, patents on plants and animals, the introduction of seed reproduction fees… Add to that terminator technology that destroys the fertility of seeds and the prohibition of peasant varieties. We must prevent the very basis of our food supply from becoming a source of profit for multinational companies.


Two years ago we launched the petition "Sowing the future-harvesting diversity“ to protest against planned new European Union seed laws that are dominated by the interests of the big seed companies.


We intend to present the tens of thousands of signatures collected throughout Europe to the European Parliament and call for an enquiry to clarify whether these laws violate the fundamental right to food and to access to seeds.


We invite you to participate in two days of action during which we will make clear our opposition to EU policies and our intention to resist against them."


http://www.seed-sovereignty.org/EN/index.html

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Bean Library to celebrate Earth Day & International Seed Day


2011-04-12  SeedLiving staff - Calgary


The Great Guerilla Bean Giveaway - Easter Saturday, April 23rd.


SeedLiving is hosting Canada’s first ever Bean Library to celebrate Earth Day and International Seed Day, April 26th. 
At SeedLiving’s outdoor bean library, users may ‘borrow’ up to 12 varieties of heirloom, certified organic and almost extinct bean seeds to plant in the garden. 

Users are asked to take good care of the beans, to not use any pesticides, agrochemicals or fertilizers in the growing process. Library users can harvest and save some beans/seeds for themselves and return others into circulation via SeedLiving’s website. Beans are very easy to save from year to year. Beans enrich soil with nitrogen. The library is taking place in order to get gardeners involved in seed saving.

The Bean Library will take place from Noon to 3pm on Saturday, April 23rd at the Nellie Breen Playground in Inglewood, Calgary. A donation of 25 cents per seed packet is requested. Planting and seed saving instructions will be provided. Beans offered: Black Valentine (bush), Cherokee Trail (pole), Dragon’s Tongue (bush), Lazy Housewife (pole), Golden of Bacau (pole), Ideal Market (pole), KY Wonder Pole, Purple Pod Pole, Rattlesnake Snap (pole), Speckled Cranberry (pole), Sultan’s Green Cresent (pole), Sultan’s Golden (pole). The oldest bean variety offered at the bean library is 200 years old.

International Seed Day, April 26 2011, advocates the importance of patent free seeds, biodiversity and food freedom. Seed saving should be a human right. If gardeners and farmers do not start to grow and save rare seeds, many varieties will be lost. It is advantageous to grow rare seeds, as the more diverse a garden is, the more robust, with less pests, weeds and disease. Much of the genetic diversity of our food is being lost, as the same species of food crops are grown over vast areas.
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Bloggers who will change the way you look at dirt


2011-03-25  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

The term gardening is pretty broad, so to be more specific, we're making a list of our favourite bloggers who are passionate about seeds, growing food, permaculture or crops from a sustainable perspective.

Sami Grover writes for TreeHugger, a marvellous, usually upbeat blog about green initiatives in the world of science, design, politics and the arts. Sami introduced us to the BBC film "A Farm for the Future", as well as hugelkultur, food forestscompost showers and quite often permaculture. He sources some interesting material and writes in a warm sympathetic tone without gushing. We tweet about most of his postings because they're great. Go Sami Go!

Tom Philpott writes for the Seattle based Grist.org, an essential read for anyone involved in food politics. He tackles the controversial topics such as factory farmed animals, genetically modified crops, Big ag, as well as community supported ag (CSAs). What we love about Tom is that he is not afraid. Not sure what he's getting paid but as a journalist he has the dream job. 

Food Freedom edited by Rady Ananda is a non-commercial blog about food security, food freedom, food politics and quite often about GMO. Food Freedom also has some brilliant contributors. They wade into more hopeful territory such as permaculture projects in Afghanistan, organic composting and medicinal herb gardens. There's a good mix of provocative and useful tools for food growers.

Gayla Trail - YouGrowGirl.com has been blogging about gardening from an urban perspective since the turn of the millennium. She's crafty, thrifty, opinionated and Canadian. She participates in seed exchanges, she tweets regularly and sometimes joins #seedchat on Twitter. Gayla writes for the Globe and Mail newspaper and has written two books, You Grow Girl, a great guide for beginners and Grow Great Grub, Organic Food from Small Spaces.

Ailsa Francis is a horticulturist, gardener, writer, traveller and foodie. Her blog is filled with gorgeous photos from her travels and she seems to lead the kind of treasured life that many creatives seek. You can travel the gardens of the world through her blog. Her gardening column appears in the Ottawa Citizen newspaper. 

Randy Shore - The Green Man Blog lives on the Sunshine Coast and writes for the Vancouver Sun. He's pledged "to eat something that I grew myself every day for a year." We just discovered Randy's blog last week but there's a treasure trove of useful tidbits from recipes to living frugal, starting seeds and building a condo for mason bees.

City Farmer has been around for 33 years, encouraging "urban dwellers to pull up a patch of lawn and plant some vegetables, kitchen herbs and fruit". City Farmer is based in Vancouver, which goes to show you how long people in that city have been activists about growing food. Their site has been around since 1994 and contains hundreds of articles about urban farming. In fact, it was the first website to do so. 

Mike Lieberman from The Urban Organic Gardener starting growing on his fire escape in NYC and has since moved to LA where he grows food on his balcony. He uses trial and error and read half a dozen gardening books to get started. He has some neat DIY tips on pop bottle hanging gardens and self watering containers. 

Lester Brown is the founder of Earth Policy Institute and also is a contributor at Grist.org. If you want to hear from the source about the imminent food bubble, whether the US can feed China, or about transgenic crops, he's your man. He's been studying agricultural productivity since the 1960s. 

SeedLiving is also looking for bloggers, so drop us a line
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Women who rock our world - International Women's Day 2011


2011-03-07  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

In honour of the 100th International Women's Day, March 8th, 2011, we are compiling a list of women who teach and inspire us to grow food, save seeds and care for the soil. We put out a call on Twitter and Facebook to help us with our compilation.

Dr. Vandana Shiva; environmental activist, philosopher, eco-feminist, physicist, author of Soil Not Oil, recently featured in the documentary The World According to Monsanto,  http://www.navdanya.org/

Dr. Wangari Muta Maathai; winner Nobel Peace Prize 2004 - introduced the idea of planting trees to improve women's lives and conserve their environment. Through the Green Belt Movement, she has assisted women in planting 20 million trees. 

Michelle Obama; White House vegetable garden, healthy eating

Rachel Carson (1907 - 1964); biologist, activist, author of Silent Spring focussing on the dangers pesticide use and DDT, credited with starting the environmental movement

Lois Hole
(1929 - 2005); Canadian writer, politician, gardener, farmer, business leader, public school trustee, author of Lois Hole's Vegetable Favorites

Emilia Hazelip (1938 - 2003); Catalan organic gardener, creator of "Synergistic Vegetable Garden" using no chemicals and no machinery

Barbara Damrosch; writer, farmer, author of The Garden Primer,  http://www.fourseasonfarm.com/

Susun Weed; American herbalist, wise woman medicinal healer, forager, gardener, author of Healing Wise,  http://www.susunweed.com/

Heather C. Flores; author of Food Not Lawns - activist, permaculture designer, flamenco dancer

Suzanne Ashworth; author of Seed to Seed, farmer and seed saver

Carol Deppe; scientist, gardener and author of The Resilient Gardener

Pam Pierce; author, gardener, cook, author of Golden Gate Gardener

Lamanda Joy; food gardener, educator, Chicago citizen http://theyarden.com/

Patricia Lanza; author of Lasagna Gardening, no-till, no weed gardening

We salute the millions of women who are committed to saving rare and native seeds for our future.

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How I started to save seeds and some seed saving advice


2011-02-08  Jonna - Büllingen

First of all, I want to tell you I live in Belgium - Europe (USDA zone 6) and english is not my motherlanguage. So, if something is not clear, please forgive me and contact me to ask me for an explanation.

7 Years ago my husband and me decided to move from the Netherlands to Belgium. It’s very hard and very expensive to buy any property in the Netherlands and if you want to have a big garden you must be a millionaire to be able to pay a thing like that. In the eastern part of Belgium it’s payable. Okay, no cities in the surroundings, no shops and no take-away in our very small village (106 inhabitants), but we live in the middle of nature, have a big house and a big garden costing less than an appartment in the Netherlands.

We have about 10.000 square meters ground, but we only use 2.000 square meters for our garden. The rest we loaned to a neighbour who is a biological farmer. My husband doesn’t like gardening, but he is very skilful, so he built 2 cold greenhouses for me and if there are muscles needed in the garden he helps. All the growing, planting, weeding and seed saving I do myself.

Although I was used to save some seeds in my very small Dutch garden (just 75 square meters), I had no real experience with seed saving. But after a year in Belgium I found out that my garden (first it was a meadow – still fighting the weed seeds, haha), was just filled 5% when I bought US$ 1,000 of plants. Well, we couldn’t afford us to fill the garden with buying plants and I read a request on the Internet to trade seeds. That’s how it started 7 years ago. I traded seeds and started to collect seeds of all my plants to be able to get other seeds to fill my garden. 

In the beginning I made some mistakes and collected ‘seeds’ that where not seeds, but chaff or empty seeds. But after 2 years investigating the Internet, I felt more comfortable that my seeds would be viable and I could trade for more unusual seeds. It took another few years before I decided to sell my seeds. Since 3 years I’m selling my seeds. 

Now about how to save seeds:

-  First of all most seeds must ripe on the plant and must be harvested when there is no rain.
-  Collect the seeds and put them in a paper bag on a sunny and dry place and shake them once a day.
-  There are some seeds that must be kept moist, but that’s only for experienced seed savers
-  After drying for about 2 weeks, store the seeds in zip loc baggies on a cool and dark place.
-  Big seeds, like melons, cucumbers, etc. need a longer drying period (4 weeks) 
-  If you see any mould in the seeds, throw them away. I know you won’t like that, but they won’t germinate and the one you’re trading with won’t be happy. Better a few good and viable seeds to trade than a lot of rubbish.
- Some seeds are very hard to collect. Like hardy Geraniums. They torpedo their seeds. The hardy Geraniums were my first mistake. I thought I had seeds, but I had only seedheads. Now I know how to collect seeds, but I also know why these seeds are so pricy. It’s very hard to collect the seeds and you must check the plants every day to get the seeds. 
- Seeds of the Dicentra spectabilis (Bleading Heart) are also very hard to collect on the right time. One must wait until the little ‘beans’ turn from bright green to dull green. The seeds must be black. If you’re too early, the seeds won’t be viable, if you’re too late, the seeds will be gone. Another plant to check every day.
- I also have a lot of Salvia’s. They set seed, but I found out that not every seed will be viable. Now I check every seed to see if it MIGHT be viable. Some of the seeds can be crushed with my nail and they will never germinate. Also other seeds of other plants are sometimes empty. If you can crush a seed with your nail, it won’t be viable.
- There are a lot of plants that torpedo their seeds. A helpful solution is to use Organza baggies. Usual it’s enough to use one baggie for one trade. 
- If you collect seeds of a cultivar, the seeds might not be come true. - I do have some cultivars, and they seem to come true most of the times. But I always ask my traders/buyers to let me know if they really came true. Don’t know if my clients never complain, but until now had only 1 complaint. 
- I prefer to grow natives, there are so many species unknown at the nurseries. I love to fill my garden with plants that are not available in the nurseries.

If you have any questions about saving seeds, please let me know. Please be aware I only can help you with the seeds I collected myself. Well, maybe I can help you with other seeds, but I can’t be sure about that. 

You can contact me via email at jonnasudenius@skynet.be
Or via my website www.seedsite.eu 

My favourites are Salvia’s, Nepetia’s, herbs, wild flowers.

I garden organic and collect seeds from my own garden or collect seeds in wild when my husband and me are hunting for minerals or making a trip to another country.

I try to grow about 350 species every year. Since I get a lot of rubbish (dried flowerheads, chaff, etc), only about 100-120 new ones will germinate. But it’s worth to try new species. 

Jonna
www.seedsite.eu

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Meet iVeggieGarden: A unique mobile vegetable gardening app


2011-02-05  iveggiegarden - Brimfield


I'd like to share with the SeedLiving community an overview of a new vegetable gardening resource I've developed. It's called iVeggieGarden, and it's a vegetable gardening app for the iPhone and iPod touch (it also runs on the iPad). I believe it's unique because it is far more substantive and feature-rich than any of the other veggie gardening apps on the market.
 

My husband and I have a small sustainable vegetable farm in Central Massachusetts, and we sell our produce at three local farmers' markets. I also work full-time as a software developer. I've combined our passion for farming with my technical skills in developing iVeggieGarden, to help vegetable gardeners of all experience levels get more out of their gardens.


Part of the problem I noticed with some of the other gardening apps on the market is that they were developed by companies that produce video games. I question how much these people really know about gardening, and have found that some of the information contained in these apps is dubious. I believe that iVeggieGarden stands above the rest because it's based on years of firsthand experience in growing our own veggies. We tried hard to distill the most useful information, to make sure it's both accurate and comprehensive, and to structure it in the most practical way possible.


The app contains a catalog of over 500 vegetable varieties (predominantly heirloom and open-pollinated); over 900 color images of varieties, diseases, and pests; complete growing info for all vegetable types; planting dates by climate zone; pest and disease info including sustainable control tips; a shopping list; integrated online shopping for seeds; purchase tracking; garden planning; tracking of key dates, notes, and photos for each variety in your garden; a glossary; powerful filters, and more.


Plus, iVeggieGarden is perfectly portable, so you can take it out into your garden and take notes and photos on the spot, take it to your local garden center to help you when deciding on seed purchases, or take it on a flight and read about new varieties to grow.


I hope that some iPhone/iPod/iPad-wielding SeedLiving community members might find iVeggieGarden to be a useful tool. The app is available for purchase on the App Store: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/iveggiegarden/id411218042?mt=8, and the product website can be found at: www.iveggiegarden.com.


If you have any questions about iVeggieGarden, please feel free to contact me at leslie@iveggiegarden.com.


Sincerely,


Leslie Sturgeon

Farmer's WifeOwner, Moorit Software, LLC
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Introducing SeedLiving's New Seed Swap Function


2011-02-03  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Can't make it to the seed swap in your community? Maybe you live a little too far away? You may already know some of the growers you would like to swap with.

SeedLiving is introducing a new option so that growers can swap seeds in their community online, as often as they wish. Pass SeedLiving's URL on and begin swapping. There is now no need to list a price for a packet of seeds, you can only swap if you'd like. Simply choose the 'swap only' function when listing seeds. 

Fill out the description, sowing and planting information. Then decide whether or not to charge a shipping fee. Post a photo of the seed you are listing. Be sure to include your location so that growers in your community can find you. Also include your growing zone. Your seeds will appear on the homepage, and also be listed with your profile. Your profile lists your location and growing zone. 

When another grower wants to swap seeds with you they click on a 'request swap' link (instead of adding your item to their cart.) If you agree to swap with that grower and pay each other's shipping fees, the transaction is completed. You then send seeds to the addresses supplied to you.

Get as many growers in your community as you wish to use the swap tool. Its free. You can swap seeds year round. This function allows growers to see photos of the actual plant they are swapping. 

Be sure to swap only open-pollinated seeds please, and have fun!
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Seed School –  Think Seeds First!


2011-01-13  billmcdorman - Cornville

Seed School is slated for February 28th through March 4th in the gorgeous Verde Valley of Arizona. Seed School teaches the practical, detailed information necessary to recreate the genetic foundation for a truly sustainable agriculture. Many gardeners, farmers and growers are still purchasing, one-size-fits-all seeds every year. They could and should be saving seeds they grow selected for qualities and characteristics that work best for them. 

Seed School will train gardeners, farmers, seed savers, entrepreneurs, non-profits, policy makers and anyone else interested in turning the tide on the industrialization of our food and agriculture systems. Teaching people to “think seeds first” is the basis for any long-term, self sufficient, secure agricultural program. 

Seeds selected and harvested for disease and pest resistant, hardiness, earliness, taste and other qualities strengthen an areas’ diversity. As the saying goes, the strength of any ecosystem is a function of its diversity.

Classroom time in this permaculture inspired program will range from an introduction to genetics to modern database management (for those wishing to start a seed business or add a seed component to an existing organization). It will be balanced with hands-on activities including harvesting, processing, germination testing and packaging seeds. 

Facilitated by Bill McDorman from Seeds Trust. Gary Nabhan, PhD, author, educator and heritage food advocate as well as Toby Hemenway author of Gaia’s Garden will provide guest lectures. Five dates in 2011 including Hot, Wet & Wild in Idaho in July. www.seedstrust.com

Contact Belle Starr for more information - belle@seedstrust.com.

Seeds Trust
P.O. Box 596
Cornville, AZ 86325
928.649.3315
fax: 877.686.7524
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Permaculture for free for everyone


2011-01-08  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Permaculture is one of the most important trends in design currently sweeping the world. If you cannot take a permaculture course in person which is the best way of learning, you can read, listen and watch for free online. 

Here is a short list of resources:

36 part course is available free from iTunes through N Carolina State Univ. Go to the iTunes screen, select HS432 Lecture 1 from the "top downloads" menu on the right side of the page. This will bring up a menu with all 36 hour-long lectures. http://deimos3.apple.com/WebObjects/Core.woa/Browse/ncsu.edu

Free ebooks by David Holgren available in English, French, Spanish, Hebrew, Brazilian | http://www.holmgren.com.au/ 

CRMPI Introduction to Permaculture Ebook | PDF http://www.crmpi.org/What_is_Permaculture_files/permarticle.pdf

West Coast Food Forestry - A Permaculture Guide | http://www.scribd.com/doc/2029243/West-Coast-Food-Forestry

Companion Planting Chart | http://www.idepfoundation.org/download_files/garden_compost/Poster_GDN_Com_Plant.pdf  

Managing Cover Crops Ebook | http://sare.org/publications/covercrops/covercrops.pdf

Holistic Agriculture Library | http://soilandhealth.org/01aglibrary/01aglibwelcome.html

Free itunes podcast http://itunes.apple.com/podcast/explorations-in-permaculture/id268463650

Videos about Permaculture by Bill Mollison http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofKTgmW_FAg

Introduction to Permaculture by Bill Mollison http://www.barkingfrogspermaculture.org/PDC_ALL.pdf
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How to Plant in a Bag


2011-01-06  Our Vegetable Patch - Brewster

We have friends who live in apartments and they really miss growingtheir own salad gardens. We buy bags of Potting Soil and cut the bag open long ways and also across the middle. Turn back the corners and water the soil. You are now ready to plant your seeds. We place our bags on the ground but it will work O.K. if you put on your patio floor. Some compost may need to be added if your bag is showing a lot of growth. There is nothing like eating our own Organic and Heirloom food.
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How to Roast and Peel your Chili Peppers


2011-01-06  Our Vegetable Patch - Brewster

We grow Chili Peppers (Anaheim, Poblano, & Jalapena) in Our Vegetable Patch. After picking a nice fresh batch of peppers your are ready to start. PUT ON GLOVES FIRST. Cut the peppers in half long ways. Remove the seed and place on a cookie sheet. When your cookie sheet is full but them on your broiler pan. Roast until peppers are blistered. Remove from broiler pan and put peppers in a garbage bag. Close tightly and leave overnight. Now the skins will just slip off. I then can or freeze what I don't use. We also have an outside roaster but for smaller batches we like to usethe oven.
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Using nature to regenerate abandoned city lots


2011-01-04  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Down the street is an empty lot that has sat empty for over 5 years. It used to be Henry’s Pub and prior to that, a gas station. There is a notable level of contamination and soil toxicity and remediation has probably deterred developers. With the global recession, developers have abandoned projects leaving void spaces in most cities. Rather than waiting for new buyers, what do we do with all this empty space in our cities?

There are a few great examples out there of how to restore empty lots. Detroit has swaths of empty residential, commercial and industrial lots. On Googlemaps you can browse through the vast stretches of what used to be ‘city’. The health of the soil in these lots varies greatly and the solution Detroit is adopting is brilliant. Repurpose empty lots for urban agriculture. (Soil testing is highly recommended.) With a goal of turning Detroit into an urban agriculture capital, they’ve got the right approach to reinventing the city and making great use of abandoned space.

Havana had to do this out of necessity years ago and now the city’s Organiponicos produces enough for each resident to receive 280 grams of fresh produce daily.

Another example of how to restore empty lots is a study from Australia tracking how nature over time reclaims abandoned waste lands. The study is an observation rather than an intervention. What does nature do with empty spaces where the soil has been completely neglected?

It appears as though nothing is going on, but there’s an order to the gradual reclamation. One set of plants, namely ‘weeds’, appears as the first tier. The seeds of these plants are introduced through naturally means; wind, birds, insects. The first tier is followed by another set of plants and seeds. This continues with each plant and tier doing its job until the empty lot is then filled with bushes. Finally trees appear and the entire forest and ecosystem is in action.

“The pioneering plants have to be very competitive in colonising primary soils… In fact, that plant through its advantage is actually changing that environment to make it more conducive for a natural succession of other plants. So the weeds are actually the instrument of that succession and land rehabilitation” (http://bit.ly/gqWsm1)

The final example is a new study from Ohio State University on how to turn abandoned parking lots into food gardens comparing pots vs. beds vs. trenches. The researcher, Joe Kovach, is going to compare three situations.

1 – Growing on top of a paved area in 30” raised containers,

2- Growing amidst a paved area but digging up the pavement in one area to form a garden bed,  and

3 – Depaving to plant in the soil below. All three systems will use the same soil mix: topsoil, sand, compost and wood chips.

So what’s happening in the empty lot down the street? Well, every year the first tier of plants and ‘weeds’ start to take over. A hare even moved in last year. The Inglewood BRZ is concerned about unsightly wild plants taking over so the current owner hires someone to mow everything down every season. It's sad knowing that these first plants are the beginning of the reclamation process getting stymied. What’s frustrating is that had this lot been left for the natural process to reclaim the land, after so many years, there may have been a beautiful young forest in place at this point.

Our hope is that cities become proactive in embracing the reintroduction of plants and wildlife to abandoned lots. Nature has a great way of making cities livable.

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Try Radionic Agriculture


2010-12-31  radionics - Udonthani

Radionic Agriculture is a harmless, non-invasive metaphysical energy healing modality that can be used to help heal Crops, Plants, Trees, Flowers, Animals, etc. In Radionics subtle energies are analysed for imbalances and rebalanced using special instruments to provide healing. Radionics can be applied either through Broadcasting of energy or in local applications using sprays (for plants, etc) or can be taken orally in energised water. Radionics is more than 100 years old and Copenlabs have been manufacturing the Instruments and providing natural healing services since 1947. 

If anybody is interested in trying this for free then please see http://www.farmhealing.copenradionics.net/ or if you require more information then please contact me.

Suthawan Stone

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100% Natural Nutrients Manure Tea


2010-12-15  ManureTea - San Juan Capistrano

Authentic Haven Brand, premium soil conditioner teas are 100% natural nutrients, harvested and Eco hand packaged from Haven raised grass fed livestock only. Build strong root base systems on all your indoor and outdoor garden plants naturally. You brew Authentic Haven Brand fresh when you are ready to feed your plants. http://www.manuretea.com
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Can't make it to a permaculture course? Try a free one online - Tip #10


2010-11-30  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Our twitter account is just a few days old. Prior to signing up we really underestimated how valuable it could be and overestimated how much work it would be. Day 3 and wow! 

Today we found a free online permaculture course taught by Dr. Will Hooker through NC State University. The course includes guest lectures, reading, slides and video taped lectures. Also recommended is a facebook page, NCSU Permaculture, with YouTube videos such as In Grave Danger of Falling Food by Bill Mollison. 

The instructor, Dr. Will Hooker, is a permaculture activist and teaches Landscape Design. He lives on a fifth of an acre in downtown Raleigh. He seems to be that salt of the earth kind of guy who would have a bounty of stories to tell. 

"the chicken coop is located immediately adjacent to our production garden, and once a week, we take the straw bedding and ground covering from the coop and pen and throw it over the fence into a pile in our garden space. This is spread around our plants and becomes the main source of fertilizer for our year-round greens, our veggies, herbs, and our fruit-bearing species of trees, shrubs, vines, and ground covers." (Will Hooker, Innerchange Magazine)

We are looking forward to the 31 permaculture lectures available for free. Its sure a great way to get ready for the next growing season. 

The image is taken from Will Hooker's online permaculture course.
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What can compost do? - Tip #9


2010-11-09  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

1. renew your soil and feed your garden
2. heat your house
3. cook a chicken (not this one please)
4. heat water for a shower
5. produce methane gas which can be turned into electricity

Have a look at this video on Jean Pain composting
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10 great things to add to your compost - Tip #8


2010-11-09  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

1. used tea and coffee grounds
2. wool, linen, or cotton 
3. wood chips
4. dandelions and nettle
5. string, natural fibre 
6. hair
7. urine
8. pine needles
9. ashes
10. vinegar & water from cleaning
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Drying Seeds - Tip #7


2010-11-05  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Seeds need to be properly dried before they can be stored (see Tip #3). Remove as much pulp or liquid as you can before drying. Take a solid flat piece of untreated wood, a window screen or glass dish. Screens allow for air circulation. Write out what varieties you are drying and fasten these onto the surface. You may have more than one seed variety you are drying and it may be difficult to remember when it comes time to storing them. Take your seeds and spread them out thinly on the surface. Place the surface in a warm and sunny area where the temperature does not exceed 35C of 95F so the seeds are not damaged. Stir them over the course of the day. A fan or open window will help circulate the air. Seeds require one week to dry. 

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How to mulch leaves when you don't have a mulcher - Tip #6


2010-11-03  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

What to do with mountains of leaves? Leaves in your compost can take time to decompose if they are not properly mulched. Or you can kill off unwanted lawn with layers of leaves. To use them as mulch leaves need to be broken down. One method we recently discovered by chance is to make a giant pile of leaves in a sunny spot and get in touch with that inner child. Half an hour of hardy play, stomping on a pile of dry leaves does a wonderful job of breaking them down so they can be used in your garden. No need to bag them, haul them away or use a mulcher. 
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Getting rid of slugs - Tip #5


2010-11-03  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

When your garden is overtaken with slugs, as ours was last season, there are a few things you can do to get rid of them. 

Bait them using newspaper soaked in sugar water hidden under a large wooden board. They will congregate there during the heat of the day where they can be removed by hand and transferred to your compost pile.

Set sand, broken egg shells or pine needles around the plants which are most desirable. These sharp edged natural materials will deter the slugs by making their journey to your plants uncomfortable.

Attract them to another part of the garden with lettuce leaves or sugar water. 
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Does your sheet mulch contain BPA? - Tip #4


2010-10-29  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

When in doubt, use organic. We're looking into the best way of smothering our lawn this season and planting next spring. A preferred method for many gardeners is sheet mulching or covering lawn with cardboard, newsprint or carpet, wetting it down, then heaping on the mulch. Well it turns out that recycled cardboard and quite possibly newsprint may contain Bisphenol-A. This is not what we want when enriching our soil and starting a new growing area! The word is that BPA is found in some printer's ink and glues in recycled cardboard. As for carpet, I'm sure the list of toxins is longer. The safest solution? Stick with truly organic materials that you yourself grow. Tree leaves when not mulched make a perfect layer for smothering unwanted grass. Wet leaves form a great light barrier. As the leaves breakdown they enrich the soil and rid the area of unwanted weeds and grass.
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The key to storing seeds - Tip #3


2010-10-26  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Some of us are just learning how to store seeds successfully. There have been failed attempts at storing them in plastic bags because of the hairy mold that grows. The key to storing seeds that can be dried, is to keep them very cool and dark, rather than warm and exposed to light. Seeds that have been enhanced in any way tend to have a shorter storage lifespan. Different crops will store for different amounts of time. How long will they keep? Seeds that are stored in the right conditions can be viable and germinate after 10 years! Seed moisture and storage temperature are the most important. First dry the seed out at a warm temperature. Then store them at less than 8 percent moisture and below 40 degrees Fahrenheit in sealed jars. Some of the longest storing seeds are muskmelon, cucumber and lettuce seeds. For more information on seed storage have a look here and here.
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No-Till builds your soil - Tip #2


2010-10-26  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Soil is a combination of living organisms, organic matter in various stages of decay, nutrients, sand, pebbles and clay. No-till gardening is the practice of not turning over the earth or plowing the soil. 

A recent study in 2010 came out showing how no-till gardening can improve soil stability. This comes as news to many gardeners and farmers who continue to plow their land. Four semiarid sites in the US were studied. The no-till areas stored more soil carbon rather than releasing it into the atmosphere. Carbon makes the particles in the topsoil stick together better, making it less likely to erode. Tilling a garden area makes it more vulnerable to rain and wind disturbance and it also depletes the organic matter in the topsoil. But how do the conventional no-tillers control weeds? Some rely on herbicides.

Another long term study by USDA recently showed that organic gardening actually produced higher quality organic matter in the soil than no-till gardening. Organic gardening relies heavily on plowing the soil rather than applying herbicides to control weeds.

Organic no-till  Having said that what about organic no-till gardening? Some say its "nirvana of agriculture!" By not using pesticides and not tilling the soil, preserving the best of both systems, this creates an ideal sustainable growing technique. You don't disrupt the soil and you only use organic inputs rather than fossil fuel based inputs. You plant cover crops such as vetch in order to control weeds. At planting time instead of tilling, organic no-till gardeners knock down the cover crop in just the right way in order to plant through it. Cover crops replenish the soil with nutrients while no-tilling keep the nutrients and topsoil from eroding. For videos on organic no-till gardening, have a look here and here.

Further reading  Jared Flescher's blog gives the full meal deal on organic no-till gardening and its development over the years. 
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Getting rid of your lawn - Tip #1


2010-10-26  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

A few years back we converted much of our back yard to raised beds. Next year we will get rid of the remaining lawn and convert the area to a Sepp Holzer inspired wild garden. There are a few ways to get rid of lawn. 

Dig up the sod The first method which is often used is simply to dig up the sod. To do this efficiently its pretty back braking work. You need to dig out all the grass roots and this can be up to one foot deep. Shake out the excess soil from the sod you have removed. You can either reuse the sod in other areas of the garden or compost the clumps if they are small enough. Otherwise they will take some time to break down. Although many people prefer this quick method of removing grass it can really disrupt the soil stability and insect life. The advantage is that when you add new topsoil to the area you can immediately plant.

Rototilling If you have access to a rototiller, another method you can consider is to rototill the lawn. The advantages of this method are that the lawn is chewed up and the organic matter remains in the area as mulch. Rototilling established lawn will require a fairly beefy machine. Do not rototill when the lawn is wet and be careful of large rocks under the sod. Depending on the size of the rototiller, you can easily rototill perennials and small bushes without intending to do so. The disadvantage of this method is that weeds such as thistle may be inadvertently propagated and it doesn't necessarily get rid of the grass roots. Tilling any area also has the disadvantage of releasing much needed nitrogen from the soil. 

The antithesis of rototilling is no-till gardening which is rapidly growing as a less disruptive farming method. 

Cardboard (wait, see Tip#4) and Straw Our preferred method for removing the remaining lawn in our yard is the easiest and most nourishing for our soil. We have some fairly narrow strips of lawn between our raised beds so we will take wet cardboard and lay it over the lawn area. If we run out of cardboard we'll use newsprint, although the ink used is more than likely not vegetable based. The cardboard will eliminate any light and kill the grass. Next we'll put down a heavy layer of straw or mulch. Because we are situated in the prairies this material is readily available. The advantage of this method is that it adds organic matter to the soil and doesn't require finding a new home for the sod. Next season we will simply plant within the mulched area without tilling. Because we are not disrupting the soil, the seedlings we plant next year will have an insulated environment rich with nitrogen. 

Further reading Food Not Lawns by Heather C. Flores is a wonderful resource. Its great reading in the off season and very inspiring. 
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No blog, No problem


2010-10-01  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

SeedLiving is looking for growers to submit news & tips for their growing area. You can post articles yourself, or, send us the photos and we'll post them for you. 

We all love tips. There are so many great gardening tips out there and they vary according to what you're growing, where and how. Its why the gardening radio shows are always jam packed with callers. You might be a great gardener in one region but need to learn a few things for farming in another region. Or, you may be trying out a new growing technique such as square foot gardening or no till gardening, and need some tips for that.

We've just rejigged SeedLiving so that growers can submit tips specifically for their area. Readers can search the site for news & tips that apply to their area. In fact, we received this as a tip from Get Soiled. Thanks!
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Why we love open pollination


2010-09-24  AnnaMieka - Calgary

Open pollinated seeds are produced naturally using the ingenious mechanisms in nature for pollination: wind, water, insects and birds. Open pollination occurs with other compatible plants in the immediate area. The seeds tend to closely resemble their parents and are fairly close to the original plants in colour, size and height. 

We love open pollination because this is how plants have been grown and evolved over time and how biodiversity is maintained. Of course we also love open pollinated seeds because they can be saved and replanted from year to year as growers have done for generations. There are also self pollinating untreated heirloom seeds like peas and beans and these are great too! The OP seeds grow well without having to use additional inputs such as fertilizers, pesticides and irrigation. They adapt to their local environment, can be hardier and can have better flavour. 

In order to preserve all traits of open pollinated plants, seed breeders recommend keeping distance or a buffer (such as a greenhouse) between varieties. Heirloom seeds and plants are the product of open pollination over generations. They are for the most part, not used in large scale agriculture. 

Hybrid seeds differ from open pollinated seeds as they are the offspring of mixed parentage. Many hybrids are created by humans, whereas natural hybrids occur when plants that are closely related cross pollinate. Crossing two genetically distinct plants is done via controlled pollinating for example by commercial seed breeders. The offspring of genetically different parents is a new variety with specific traits from either/both parents. The seeds of many hybrid plants are infertile or they tend to not resemble the hybrid parent. The seeds of natural hybrid plants are often viable as they have learned to survive in a particular climate. 

Most hybrid seeds are the product of commercial breeders and can require higher maintenance. They often require higher inputs and produce higher yields. These types of seeds have led to a cyclical dependence on higher cost inputs which has led in some instances to soil depletion and/or farmers becoming increasingly indebted. Most corn and sugar beets produced in the US are hybrid. It is possible to get non hybrid heirloom corn seed however. 

F1 Hybrids come from two distinct plants that growers have cross mated. They are the first generation of plants cross pollinated in a controlled setting, and they can only be produced again by starting with the two distinct parent plants. Seed saved from F1 plants will not produce F1 hybrid seeds.

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Canada's import regulations for seeds


2010-09-15  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

It isn't news, but its useful. If you're looking to 'import' seed from another country, its a good idea to have a look at your own region's import laws. For Canada, you can have a look at the regulations on the Canadian Food Inspection Agency website (as of 2010-04-30).
Here are some excerpts: Seed being imported for use in a food product such as mustard seed or cumin seed are not subject to the requirements of the Seeds Act and Regulations.
Where the imported seed lot is 5 kg or less for large seeded crop kinds such as peas, wheat, soybeans and corn or is 500 g or less for small seeded crop kinds such as alfalfa, tomato or canola, neither the import declaration information nor the certificate of analysis need be supplied. See Section X (below) for clarification of importations with multiple small seed lots
In order to determine whether the species is "large seeded" or small seeded, please refer to Section Z. If the species is listed as having 199 seeds or less per gram, it is considered large seeded. If the species is listed as having 200 seeds or more per gram, it is considered small seeded.
Where the seed is being imported for research purposes or for conditioning, the certificate of analysis need not include information on the percent germination.
Certificates of analysis and import declarations are not required for lots of herb seed that are 5 kg or less, or for flower seed, tree or shrub seed, true potato seed, ginseng, seeds of aquatic plants or onion/garlic multiplier sets. Please note that this exemption does not apply to wildflowers; importations of seed lots of wildflower species or mixtures that are greater than 500 grams require an import declaration and a certificate of analysis.
For non-pedigreed seed of forage species, the name of the variety need not be supplied on the import declaration.
When determining the weight of seed being imported for the purpose of determining fees and lot sizes, the weight of the seed refers only to the weight of the seed itself. The weight does not include any seed coatings, seed packaging material or any material to which the seed is attached e.g. seed tape.
For the purposes of determining whether a "small lot" exemption is triggered, seed lot refers to a quantity of seed to which a unique identifier (such as a variety name or seed lot number) is assigned. There may be one or more packages that make up the seed lot being imported. For example 250 envelopes each containing 1 g of carrot seed of a variety called "Fred" may make up a seed lot for importation. The seed lot size is 250 g. The carrot seed may be accompanied by equal quantities of tomato, beet and bell pepper seed to make up a seed shipment weighing 1 kg. This shipment would be subject to the minimum $15 import fee; however, the individual seed lots would not be subject to the import declaration or certificate of analysis requirements.
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Interview with Zazel Loven


2010-08-25  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Zazel is on the board of the American Community Gardening Association. The ACGA works to "support all aspects of community food and ornamental gardening, urban forestry, preservation and management of open space, and integrated planning and management of developing urban and rural lands." Zazel is also presently on the board of Chelsea Waterside Park on the West Side of Manhattan across from the Hudson River - and working on the planning and fundraising for a total renovation of this neighborhood park. Until recently she was a Senior Editor with Organic Gardening magazine, and one of the founding editors of Country Living Gardener, a Hearst Magazines publication.
1. Have you planted any rare seeds this year? no rare seeds, but I do grow a selection of heirloom tomatoes from seedlings and a chocolate mint that is rather hard to find.
2. In your travels, what is the most inspirational garden you have come across?Laura Simon's garden on the island of Nantucket.
3. Do you have a gardening hero? Will Allen or anyone bringing fresh food to the underserved.
4. What is your favorite food to grow? okra in its many beautiful incarnations.
5. Any recommended books? Jon Carloftis's gardening books, Barbara Damrosch's Garden Primer
6. If you could share one growing tip what would that be?plant those tomatoes far apart - I make the same mistake every year!
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Interview with Gael Blackhall


2010-08-09  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Gael Blackhall is the Coordinator of the Community Garden Resource Network which is a project of The Calgary Horticultural Society. She's a local gardening expert and environmentalist who helps new community gardens and orchards take root in Calgary's suburbs as well as in between the skyscrapers downtown. In 2008 there were more than 100,000 square feet of community gardens being cultivated in a city that spans over 100,000 square kilometres. Calgary was once dubbed the "Garden City of the West" when in 1943, there were 2,366 Vacant Lots Garden Club members harvesting from 3,229 lots. You can read more about urban agriculture in Calgary and its Food Policy Council (CFPC). Gael is active in the Slow Food community and she speaks at local farmers markets and green events. 

1.  Have you planted any rare seeds this year? Yes, the seeds of empowerment and fun for Calgarians who are growing vegetables, herbs and fruit for the first time! Last year I was introducing newbie gardeners to growing herbs in a number of locations so herbs were being incubated at home. This year I grew cherry tomatoes from seed in order to be able to assist children's daycamp leaders to deliver adopt-a-tomato salsa garden workshops on a tiny budget.

2.  In your travels, what is the most inspirational garden you have come across? The Fort Calgary Community Garden which is grown from heirloom seeds is my favourite. The crops are large, luscious and healthy, thanks to Eliza Potter, head gardener, and her gardening team!

3.  Do you have a garden hero? My community gardening hero is Ruth Anne Rudack for her amazing voluntary contributions to community gardening in Calgary. She is a wonderful gardener as well!  

4. What is your favorite food to grow? Strawberries and baby pak choi.

5. Any recommended books? The Calgary Gardener produced by The Calgary Horticultural Society and The Harrowsmith Northern Gardener by Jennifer Bennett.

6.  If you could share one growing tip what would it be? Water all plants at the soil level (not showered from above). This conserves water because less evaporates into the air and makes the seedlings less vulnerable to pests, blights and molds.

(Garden images courtesy of Fort Calgary Community Garden)

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Nau Announces 2nd Annual $10,000 Grant for Change Recipients: TRUCK FARM


2010-07-28  emearns - new york

Portland-based sustainable, urban + outdoor apparel company, announces today the recipient of the second annual Grant for Change campaign, which sought individuals, small teams and organizations using design as a tool for positive change. Truck Farm, founded in 2009 by Ian Cheney and Curt Ellis, is a 20-member mobile garden and documentary project showcasing innovative, urban agriculture and will receive a $10,000 grant from Nau to further their cause. (Watch Truck Farm's YouTube video here.)

“Truck Farm displayed a high-level of creativity in rethinking an issue that is relevant to everyone, designing a solution that is hopeful and provocative,” said Mark Galbraith, General Manager of Nau. “Thoughtful and informed design has always been at the core of Nau and Truck Farm used these principles to rethink an important social issue, bringing broader awareness to the problem through digitally accessible and effective communication. We are thrilled to announce them as the recipient of the second annual Grant For Change.

”Using green-roof technology, heirloom seeds and the help of his friend, Curt Ellis, Ian Cheney transformed his grandfather’s 1986 Dodge pickup into a mobile farm on wheels. With the truck bed full of vegetables and nutrient-rich soil, Truck Farm travels the country educating urban communities, schools and curious on-lookers about the benefits and possibilities of growing food locally and in unexpected ways. Not only is the pickup designed as an inspiring educational tool and working garden, Truck Farm is also a creative documentary project. With the $10,000 grant from Nau, the team plans to continue filming their endeavors and further converting their old Dodge into a mobile outdoor movie-house with an under-hood LCD projector and speaker system. Hitting the road again for schools and towns across the country, they will host events and project their film from the truck, educating communities on sustainable, urban agriculture projects.

“For the past year, we’ve been working, traveling and filming on a limited budget,” said Ian Cheney. “This generous grant will provide the necessary financial support to help us continue spreading the word about community supported agriculture programs. We hope Truck Farm will inspire others to get creative to bring about positive change.”

The second annual $10,000 Grant for Change launched on May 10th and uncovered over a hundred everyday individuals and groups who implement creative design in order to give back and positively impact their communities and beyond. As a company, Nau believes that design can provide creative, compelling, and effective solutions to the world’s most pressing challenges.

ABOUT NAU
Nau (pronounced “now”) is a clothing company based in Portland, Oregon. They design, make, and sell sustainable urban+outdoor apparel – integrated designs for the modern mobile life. Nau is committed to the power of business as a force for positive change, seeking to balance the triple bottom line of people, planet and profit. To learn more about Nau, visit www.nau.com .
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Interview with Chef Ryan Hardy


2010-07-27  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Chef Ryan Hardy is a master cheesemaker, an avid fly fisherman and a part-time farmer. His restaurant Montagna in Aspen CO, was named one of the Top 10 Farm-to-Table Restaurants in the US by Epicurious.com. He sources the freshest ingredients from his own organic diversified working farm where he grows heirloom vegetables, tree crops and raises livestock such as pastured heritage-breed chickens. He adheres to the slow food movement and he consciously avoids the preparation of endangered fish. You can read more on Chef Ryan here, watch online videos from MarthaStewart.com, and read a feature in the June 2010 issue of Martha Stewart Living magazine. If you have extra spinach in your garden this year, check out his recipe for Spinach Sformatino here

1. Have you planted any rare seeds this year? Yes, Carciofi Violetti di Puglia – Violet artichokes seeds from Italy

2. In your travels, what is the most inspirational garden you have come across? Probably the garden at Spannocchia in Tuscany, Italy. The asparagus crowns were so old (they live to be 30-40 years old) that they were gnarled with big fat spears – very rare!  The grounds were amazing with wild rosemary, fennel and margoram growing throughout the forest lands – it was so amazing that you kind of expected to come across a unicorn! 

3. Do you have a gardening hero? Hands down, Eliot Coleman 

4. What is your favorite food to grow? Artichokes 

5. Any recommended books? For gardening, anything by Eliot Coleman – it’s sensational.  For prose, Michael Pollen (anything), Barbara Kingsolver (Animal, Vegetable, Miracle), The Food of Italy by Waverly Root – a must read for anyone even remotely interested in the culture of growing and eating in the beautiful country. 

6. If you could share one growing tip what would that be? I wish I did more growing (!), but stick with it and follow through. More gardens are lost to the weeds then to just about anything else. Proper planning is essential and always try something new and different! Most of all, growing, to me, is all about the journey and the reward for the sacrifice is the fruit –

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Interview with Jere Gettle of Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company


2010-07-21  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

Jere Gettle started the Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company in 1998 as a means to preserve heirloom seeds. Baker Creek Seed Company offers only open-pollinated seeds: pure, natural & non-GMO. Jere and his family were featured last summer in O, The Oprah Magazine, you can read the article here or watch an interview with Jere on youtube.

1. Have you planted any rare seeds this year? "We are growing out several Russian varieties that to our knowledge have never been offered or even grown in North America. So we're very excited about that. We also received several Iraqi varieties from our seed collector friend Aziz Nael--a couple of Iraqi tomatoes and an eggplant, which we're growing for increase this season. We're very happy to be helping in the effort to preserve some diversity from such an ancient agricultural area."

2. In your travels, what is the most inspirational garden you have come across? "Probably the gardens at Old Salem, Winston-Salem, North Carolina. Just outstanding for historical accuracy and beauty."

3. Do you have a gardening hero"There are so many--probably William Comstock, founder of Comstock-Ferre, because he made seed production an important part of early American industry. And Glenn Drowns of Sandhill Preservation Center, for his work in preserving not just heirloom plant varieties but also rare, heritage poultry."

4. What is your favorite food to grow?  "Eggplant. There is such an amazing diversity of sizes, shapes, colors and flavors. And it's my favorite vegetable to eat!"

5. Any recommended books? "If someone is just starting out with saving seeds from heirloom varieties, they really should read  "Seed to Seed" by Suzanne Ashworth. It covers all aspects of seed-saving, and even includes a lot of exotic veggies that are just beginning to be produced in North America."

6. If you could share one growing tip what would that be?  "I'd say, never stop experimenting. Even if something's growing well, don't be afraid to try a different technique. There's always room for improvement--it's a never-ending process!"

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Interview with Marjorie Harris


2010-07-21  SeedLiving staff - Calgary

SeedLiving has started a new series as part of our ‘news & tips’. We are interviewing prominent green thinkers, gardeners, farmers, chefs and writers from around the world, with the same six questions.

The first in our series is Marjorie Harris, gardening guru and Globe and Mail’s Style columnist. She is the author of two new books; Thrifty: Living the Frugal Life with Style; and How to Make a Garden The 7 Essential Steps for the Canadian Gardener.

1. Have you planted any rare seeds this year? I almost never plant seeds myself but try to buy plants from people who do. So:  Larry Davidson of Lost Horizons for instance. Superb plantsman.

2. In your travels, what is the most inspirational garden you have come across? The Abkhazi Garden in Victoria BC. It’s a knockout. 

3. Do you have a gardening hero? Writers appeal to me because it’s hard to write coherently and well about gardening which tends to get clogged with nonsense. My great heroine is Beth Chatto. Great gardener. Great writer. Or Helen Dillon Ditto.

4. What is your favorite food to grow? Tomatoes until it became apparent that i don’t have enough sun to grow them. I have a semishady garden. Live with what you’ve got.

5. Any recommended books? Botanica North America for information on native plants. How To Make A Garden: The Seven Essential Steps   Both by Marjorie Harris

6. If you could share one growing tip what would that be? If you don’t prepare your soil properly,  then don’t bother gardening.

Marjorie Harris' blog is http://marjorieharris.com/

 

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Don't throw out your Ikea packaging!


2010-06-21  AnnaMieka - Calgary

How to make a greenhouse on the cheap?? This year I thought I was going to take the leap and use a more durable glazing material on my greenhouse. It sits on one of our raised beds and has a wooden frame. The wooden frame itself won’t last that long, but the plastic I installed last summer took a beating over the winter and didn’t even make it to another season. The winds in Calgary get up to 70kms per hour. So having surveyed the cost of polycarbonate panels (ouch) I went back to the plastic sheeting option, because, well, being thrifty is just so much fun. I went to the basement and there was this great stash of thick plastic which used to contain our Ikea mattress. Perfect! Cut it up into panels and now we have a greenhouse care of Ikea; cheers Anders!
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