Getting Seeds Off to a Great Start

Reprinted with permission from the Dig This Newsletter

All throughout January, I’ve been asked “What seeds can I start now?” 

  My reply?  Nothing!

  That’s not technically true, of course.  Some flower seeds, such as geraniums, should be started indoors in January.  But it’s too early to start most other flowers and vegetable seeds.  At this point, I usually get a copy of the West Coast Seed catalogue and flip to the Planting Chart.  The chart tells you what seeds to start and whether indoors or directly seeded outdoors for each month of our coastal growing season.

  If you don’t already have a copy of this free catalogue, drop by one of our stores and get one.  It’s the best resource on how to grow vegetables in our coastal climate, and it’s free!

  However, now that it’s almost February, there are seeds you can start indoors – leeks, asparagus, sweet onions, and parsley.  You can direct seed broad beans outdoors, and after the middle of the month, peas.  If you use a floating row cover, you can also direct seed radishes and oriental greens.

The real indoor seed starting “season” begins in March, but now is the time to get your seeds and other seed starting supplies ready.

  Starting plants from seeds is easy.  Better yet, you can be sure your plants are organically grown and you’ll have a better selection of varieties to choose from if you grow your own flowers and vegetable starts.

  Here are some basic tips for successful seed starting indoors:

  Containers.  You can use pretty well anything that is clean and will hold about 2 – 3 inches deep of starting mix. Some people like to grow their seeds in large, shallow pans, called “flats” and then prick out each seeding to pot on as they get bigger. Others grow their seeds in little plastic containers with cells for each plant or individual peat pellets. Some people recycle and use plastic containers used previously for food and cut-down milk cartons. Then there is the Pot Maker, which helps you make little containers from old newspapers.  Organic growers often use soil blockers – an intriguing mechanical device that forms blocks of soil in which to grow your seeds.  Whatever you use is clean and has good drainage.

  Growing Mix.  Fill your containers with a starter mix or other medium made specifically for seed-starting. Do not use garden soil or regular potting soil.  It will be too heavy, and your seeds will be starved for oxygen.

  Read the Seed Package Carefully.  Seed packages usually contain useful information about planting your seeds, like how deep to plant them, whether they need darkness or light a period of cold weather to germinate successfully.  There are some seeds that do not like to be covered as they need light to germinate so read your package carefully. The seeds of impatiens, petunias, alyssum, and ageratums do not like to be covered, just pressed firmly into the starter mix.  If you need more information, West Coast Seed Catalogue has detailed growing instructions for each type of vegetable that they sell. 

  Plant the Seeds. As a general rule, you should fill your containers and moisten the mix, then drop your seeds onto the mix as evenly as possible. Cover the seeds carefully to a depth of three times the size (width) of the seed or accordingly to the instructions on the seed package. Tamp the mix down gently so they are in close contact with the moist mix. Don’t forget to label them!

  Heat. Seeds generally germinate better when their soil is warm. A heating mat is a good investment, but placing your containers on top of a water heater or over a gas stove’s pilot light also works. Do not place them on a windowsill as the night temperatures are too cool for germination. Consistent warmth day and night is what starts the seeds!

  Moisture. Keep your mix moist, but not wet. Water from above using a spray bottle with tepid water. Our bottle top waterers are perfect for this job. Cover the seeds with a plastic dome or plastic wrap. Check daily and when you see your seeds sprouting remove the cover.

  Light. Growing seedlings need 12 – 16 hours of light a day. We sell an easy-to-install grow light system in 2, 3 and 4 foot lengths that will really give your plants the best start.  Begin with them 2" above the pots and raise the lights gradually as the plants grow. If you don’t have lights, place your containers is the brightest spot you have. Seedlings that have to stretch for light become spindly and weak.

  Fertilizer. When your seedlings have got their second set of leaves you can start feeding them a light mixture of liquid fish/seaweed fertilizer every week. Be careful not to over water as “damping off” can occur. This is a fungal disease that can fell your seedlings at ground level, so test your soil before watering. It is okay to let the top of the soil dry out between waterings. Poke your finger into the soil to test for moistness, and if the top half inch is dry, its time to water.

  Play with Your Seedlings. By ruffling or petting your seedlings once a day you are help them grow stocky and strong. This is a great way to create air circulation around your plants.  If you have a lot of seedlings, a fan does the same job.

  Potting On. Repot the seedlings into their own container after they have a few sets of leaves. They will need a soil mix that contains compost. Handle them by their leaves so you do not damage their fragile stems.

  Hardening Off.  When the weather is warm enough to plant your new seedlings outdoors, you need to get them used to outside temperatures gradually.  This is called “hardening off”.  About a week before you’re ready to plant them into your garden, start introducing them to the garden by placing them in a shaded and protected area for a few hours, and then bring them in at night. Gradually move them into the sun and soft winds adding more time each day. In a few days you can leave them overnight and then transplant into your garden.

  For more information, watch this short video from Thompson & Morgan Seeds.

Elizabeth Cull

Dig This Victoria